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1996: Grand Canyon — Day Two

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In the morning Hot Head and his family were the last ones to break camp and get on the rafts. This would become a recurring event. Every day we would all sit on the rafts waiting for them. I never could figure out what they were doing that made them late.

We started down the river and after a while spotted some researchers with their scientific gear camped on a beach, doing research on the effects of the flood. The TV crew wanted to interview them and so did we. Winger turned our raft toward the shore.

As we got closer I got a better look at our “scientist.” He looked like a serial killer. Shoulder length hair, a madman’s beard, a tie-dyed t-shirt. “I don’t like the looks of this group,” Winger said. As if to confirm his suspicions, the “scientist” walked up to the riverbank, boldly unbuttoned his pants, and began urinating directly in our direction. We decided not to stop.

The day was filled with intermittent rapids. After one series, I notice the California women are putting on lipstick. Not Chapstick or Carmex to protect their lips, but ruby red lipstick. They even have a little round mirror to stare into.

Another habit that I’m noticing is that of the men on my raft. After every rapid they come back to the middle of the boat, getting into their ammo cans and pulling out a camera or putting it back in. Hot Head would get soaking wet on the front of the boat and then come to the back of the raft and comb his hair before going back up to the front to get wet again.

One guy was always too slow to get back up front when the rapids came, and kept blocking our shots of the rapids. Winger had a big squirt gun that he wouldn’t hesitate to use if you blocked his vision. I leaned back and said, “Next time you use that squirt gun, just tap me on the shoulder so I can get a shot.”

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Seconds later he yells, “Clear the middle!” and a spray of cold water hits the guy. He gets out of the middle quickly. The TV guy says to Winger, “Thanks for getting that goofy bastard out of my way.”

We’re hitting a lot of little rapids today. It’s good practice for the big ones. I’ve got the Nikonos in my right hand while I hold on with my left. We hit President Harding Rapid. It’s another one of those ones that’s supposed to be nothing. Of course, it’s a lot more than nothing. It’s a real bitch. We drop into a huge hole and right into a wall of water. The entire front half of the boat flies back at me. I go airborne, my feet fly above my head, and I’m holding onto the raft with one hand like I’m a bull rider. I manage to get one shot off, fired with no idea of what I’m getting.

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I look down and Prince is dragging the TV reporter back into the boat. He flew off the raft when we hit the wall of water but somehow managed to grab hold of a rope on the side.

In the afternoon we reach the spot where the Little Colorado runs into the Colorado. The Little Colorado is pure turquoise water and very warm. We get out and swim some small rapids. The California women want to wash their hair and become upset when they’re told that for environmental reasons they’re not allowed to use shampoo in the Little Colorado.

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Swimming in the warm water with the Nikonos, I end up missing the real show. Getting off the raft, the TV reporter slips off a seat, bounces on the front tubes and flies off the boat, landing on his stomach in three inches of water. Not missing a beat, he looks up and says, “What did the German judge give me?” All his cameraman, could say was, “I wish I would have gotten that on tape.”

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1996: Grand Canyon — Day One — First Blood

Our first landmark is Ten Mile Rock, a huge boulder that normally stands way out above the water. But with the floodwater we could only see its top. Winger pulls our boat up to the rock and tells Dan, a community college professor who is the unofficial leader of the Californians, to jump onto it for a photo. Dan’s been coming out to the river since 1965 so Winger figures a photo of him on top of this rock that’s normally inaccessible will be quite the souvenir. 

Dan jumps onto the rock to have his picture taken. And then really quick, another passenger jumps off the boat and climbs up as well, ruining the photo op.

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“Lou, we just want Dan on the rock,” Winger says. That’s Dan on top in the photo above, looking down wondering why Lou is on the rock. Here’s a closer crop:

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Lou just stands there oblivious. His wife starts yelling for him to get back on the boat but it’s too late; we’re drifting away. They’ll have to settle for the photo of Dan + Lou. Everyone with a camera takes one. I can just picture Dan’s office today, with his framed photograph of himself and Lou, on the top of Ten Mile Rock. 

Next up was Badger Creek Rapid. A ranger had reported that Badger was washed out and nothing to worry about. With that in mind I hopped up onto the very front of the raft ready to get right into the fun of things. I was wearing shorts and a long-sleeved t-shirt and had a Nikonos underwater camera strapped to my life-jacket. Jack, a 63-year old so energetic and athletic that we started calling him Jack Lalanne, hopped onto the front tubes with me. “This should be good,” I said. Jack smiled, also excited.

As the rapid approached, I looked behind me at the others on our raft and saw one of the Californians, a 73-year-old, sitting up high in the middle of our boat holding a huge camcorder on his shoulder and filming the ride. I hoped he was holding on.

Then Badger came up and swallowed us. By the time I saw the fifteen-foot deep hole in the the water that we were racing down into, it was too late to retreat. Staring into this watery void that we were about to crash into, there was no way I could photograph anything. I simply held on for my life with both hands and all my strength. The front of the boat dove into the hole and we smashed into a wall of water. Instead of being a nice, cool splash, the freezing water slammed into me like a baseball bat.

I held on tight but the mammoth force of water knocked me all of my weight back onto my right arm, hyperextending my elbow. Pain shot through me as if bones were broken. After we cleared the rapid I looked down and the lens on my Nikonos had been ripped halfway off. My hat was saved only because I had clipped it to my life-jacket. Jack had lost his hat and glasses. At the back of the boat, I learned the elderly camcording man had fared much worse. 

As we hit the hole, he had been thrown into the air and landed on some metal boxes three feet in front of his seat. There was blood everywhere. His camcorder was ruined. When they opened it up to get the tape out, water poured from of the camera. One of the river guides patched up the man’s bloody arms with band aids. He was in pain but luckily was not seriously injured. 

We turned around to watch the raft behind us go through the rapid, expecting a great show. But the boatman easily steered around the huge hole that we had plunged into. That’s when I realized our boatman, Winger, was a kamikaze. He ran every rapid head on. And if there ever was a hippo in our way, he probably would pull a pistol and shoot it. 

After the rapid, the long float to camp was miserable. My clothes were drenched and I was cold and in pain. People kept commenting about how badly I was shivering. Being me I just stayed miserable and did nothing to fix the situation, even though dry clothes were at hand.

We pulled into camp cold and tired. The boats were unloaded and the guides handed out tents and cots. They announced there would be a demonstration on how to put up tents and assemble cots. That’s when I took notice of a loud guy I’ll call Hot Head. When we loaded up the boats this morning, he had made a big fuss because his family wasn’t all on the same boat. The real shame was that they weren’t all on their own boat, because then they would have been isolated to one boat and we wouldn’t have had to deal with them.

Hot Head had already carried cots and tents up to where his group was camping. I guess he figured he didn’t need the demo on how to set up the equipment. How hard could it be? Prince and I watched the demos and had our tents up quick. I looked over at Hot Head. He was obviously lost, unable to figure out the equipment. And he was starting to get pissed. It was enough to put a smile on my tired face. About then is when I heard what would become Hot Head’s familiar teeth-gritted catchphrase: “Damn it to hell!” 

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As darkness fell, a nearly full moon rose and lit up the canyon. It was breathtaking. We ate steak and slept with the calm sound of the river passing us by.

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1996: Grand Canyon — Day One — Launch

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Two 30-foot J-rig rafts would be carrying our group down the Colorado River. Along with the two of us Tribune-folk were twenty-six paying customers from Southern California, five river guides, a cameraman and reporter from a TV station, and a writer from the Park City newspaper who had quit his job six days ago but was still taking advantage of the free trip offered to select media outlets. To avoid any conflict of interest, we had paid the rafting company to cover our expenses. Others took it free.

I was worried that I had brought too much gear (one bag with four cameras), until the TV guys showed up with about five cases of equipment. The cameraman, Booboo, was bringing 24 cans of Diet Caffeine-free Coke, along with a new digital-videotape camera, tons of battery packs, tapes, a tripod, microphones, and who knows what else. The reporter, Wilford, had only a camouflage fanny-pack, a fishing pole, and a liter bottle of “skip-and-go-naked” whiskey.

The plane bringing in the Californians was delayed. While we waited I talked with Kip Winger, the veteran guide who would be the captain of our ship. “Are you going to pull a pistol and shoot a hippo like on the boat ride at Disneyland?” I asked. He looked at me for a moment and said no.

The Californians finally arrived. They packed their belongings into waterproof river bags and loaded onto the boats. As the Californians rubbed suntan lotion into their skin, we launched onto the smooth river.

For the first few miles, the left side of the river bordered the Navajo Nation. We passed some Navajo kids who were fishing on the rocks at shoreline. Some of the Californians on the boat waved. All except the youngest Navajo ignored us. He waved heartily. He was probably three years old, too young to realize how different we were from him. We were middle and upper-class whites who paid big money to float through his backyard on “Cadillac” rafts, while his sister may have been our waitress last night, serving rich tourists for minimum wage and tips at the Lodge.

NOTE: For photo geeks, here is the equipment I took:
A Nikonos underwater camera with a 35mm lens (loaned to me by Nikon’s Steve Heiner), which I kept strapped to my life jacket at all times.
These cameras I kept stored in a waterproof case when the water was rough: A Mamyia 7 film camera with a wide angle 43mm lens, loaded with 120 Velvia. And a Nikon F4 and Nikon FM2.

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